Today I have decided I did not like the way my vertical stabilizer looked like - I could see where horizontal rib dented vertical skin outward. And I did not quite liked the rivet job I did, so I removed the skin completely. By doing this I have managed to destroy VS-1013 rib too. So now I need to replace skin and the VS-1013.
Sunday, October 20, 2013
Monday, October 7, 2013
Door Indicator Switch
From rvbuilder2002. He works for Vans.
I have mentioned in the past, but since it has been a while...
The relays were used by design choice, not because they were need.
As designed, if the sense wire for the system ever accidentally shorted to ground, it would make the system non functional, instead of producing a hard door safe indication even if a pin was not fully engaged.
This could have been done other ways, but the relays were an inexpensive and long-lasting/durable way to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary 40274  I wired mine into my EFIS. That way I got rid of the big relays. My EFIS shows a warning if the door is open and if I advance the throttle, it yells at me. Pretty hard to take off with that thing yelling in your ear. Gary Specketer |
I have mentioned in the past, but since it has been a while...
The relays were used by design choice, not because they were need.
As designed, if the sense wire for the system ever accidentally shorted to ground, it would make the system non functional, instead of producing a hard door safe indication even if a pin was not fully engaged.
This could have been done other ways, but the relays were an inexpensive and long-lasting/durable way to do it.
Saturday, October 5, 2013
Fuselage Has Arrived!
A big day to day - my quick build fuselage has arrived.
It was delivered by Partain Trading. Very nice delivery, everything was carefully packed in blankets. I liked their service a lot.
The coupled of days before I have been building a stand for the fuselage. It was a bit difficult to build a stand for something I have not seen closely and did not know dimension. It has turned alright, after all.
I have also received a few things from Finishing Kit - wind shield, rear windows, doors and both cowling halves.
It was delivered by Partain Trading. Very nice delivery, everything was carefully packed in blankets. I liked their service a lot.
The coupled of days before I have been building a stand for the fuselage. It was a bit difficult to build a stand for something I have not seen closely and did not know dimension. It has turned alright, after all.
I have also received a few things from Finishing Kit - wind shield, rear windows, doors and both cowling halves.
Thursday, October 3, 2013
Hot Tunnel Solution
From VAF http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=104558
I have about 10 hours on my RV-10, and like a number of other builders, had an extremely hot tunnel. It was so hot that on my last flight a week ago, I couldn't even touch the side near my right leg after only about 10 minutes in the air. Since I have the fuel lines running through the tunnel, and my transponder's black box is located in it, I grounded the plane until I found a solution.
I came home and searched this website, and found that I wasn't alone. Two suggested solutions caught my eye: 1) replace the aluminum heater bypass valves that Vans provides with the stainless-steel valves made by Plane Innovations; and 2) add firewall insulation (or other thermal barrier) to keep engine heat and exhaust heat out of the tunnel area.
There seemed to be a lot of variations on the threads suggesting solution #2, and nothing seemed clear-cut or used by the majority. So I tried two heat barriers offered by a racing car supply company called "Heatshield Products" which is located here in San Diego. (I've used one of their products -- the "Lava Shield" -- to protect the fiberglass engine cowling from the exhaust pipes in my RV-6A, and that worked very well.) Their website is www.heatshieldproducts.com.
I ended ordering 12 square feet of "Lava Shield", and 12 square feet of "HP Sticky Shield", which are rated at 1200 F and 1100 F, continuous, respectively, and 2000 F intermittent for both products. (I probably only needed about 8 square feet.) The Lava Shield is cardboard-thin, easily cut with a scissors, and has a stick-on backing. The HP Sticky Shield is a little thicker (1/8 inch thick), but also is easily cut with scissors and has a stick-on backing. The stick-on backing makes installation easy.
I put the Lava Shield on the firewall side of the tunnel, and between the firewall and the new stainless-steel heater bypass valves. I also placed it on the floor of the tunnel. I placed the HP Sticky Shield on the cabin-side of the firewall, covering the bottom half inside the cabin. While I was at it, I put Lava Shield on the inside of the fiberglass engine cowling, where the exhaust pipes came close. It took me about a day to do all of this, since the plane is built, and it's a bit tough fitting my hands through all that engine stuff to replace valves and insert heat shield.
Well, I just flew her about two hours ago. It was a sunny, warm (80 F) day, and I climbed to 6000 ft to see what would happen. Eureka! The tunnel stayed cool to the touch, even when engine cylinder temps briefly touched 400 F.
I have about 10 hours on my RV-10, and like a number of other builders, had an extremely hot tunnel. It was so hot that on my last flight a week ago, I couldn't even touch the side near my right leg after only about 10 minutes in the air. Since I have the fuel lines running through the tunnel, and my transponder's black box is located in it, I grounded the plane until I found a solution.
I came home and searched this website, and found that I wasn't alone. Two suggested solutions caught my eye: 1) replace the aluminum heater bypass valves that Vans provides with the stainless-steel valves made by Plane Innovations; and 2) add firewall insulation (or other thermal barrier) to keep engine heat and exhaust heat out of the tunnel area.
There seemed to be a lot of variations on the threads suggesting solution #2, and nothing seemed clear-cut or used by the majority. So I tried two heat barriers offered by a racing car supply company called "Heatshield Products" which is located here in San Diego. (I've used one of their products -- the "Lava Shield" -- to protect the fiberglass engine cowling from the exhaust pipes in my RV-6A, and that worked very well.) Their website is www.heatshieldproducts.com.
I ended ordering 12 square feet of "Lava Shield", and 12 square feet of "HP Sticky Shield", which are rated at 1200 F and 1100 F, continuous, respectively, and 2000 F intermittent for both products. (I probably only needed about 8 square feet.) The Lava Shield is cardboard-thin, easily cut with a scissors, and has a stick-on backing. The HP Sticky Shield is a little thicker (1/8 inch thick), but also is easily cut with scissors and has a stick-on backing. The stick-on backing makes installation easy.
I put the Lava Shield on the firewall side of the tunnel, and between the firewall and the new stainless-steel heater bypass valves. I also placed it on the floor of the tunnel. I placed the HP Sticky Shield on the cabin-side of the firewall, covering the bottom half inside the cabin. While I was at it, I put Lava Shield on the inside of the fiberglass engine cowling, where the exhaust pipes came close. It took me about a day to do all of this, since the plane is built, and it's a bit tough fitting my hands through all that engine stuff to replace valves and insert heat shield.
Well, I just flew her about two hours ago. It was a sunny, warm (80 F) day, and I climbed to 6000 ft to see what would happen. Eureka! The tunnel stayed cool to the touch, even when engine cylinder temps briefly touched 400 F.
Another post in this thread
We have used, and have sold, Heatshield Products for several years with good results. They make good stuff at a very reasonable price. I particularly like their HeatShield Mat.It works well on the engine side of the firewall and also works well to reflect exhaust heat away from the cowling. Easy to cut and install too. A bead of high temp silicone or ProSeal will make a very tidy installation on the cowling too.
For Mike Starkey, no, this stuff will not hold up to Dan Horton's fire breathing dragon set up. It isn't intended to be fireproof. It's intended to insulate and reflect heat.
I use this on the engine side of my firewall(s) but would have no qualms about putting it in the tunnel of an RV-10, although there are undoubtedly many ways to insulate that area.
I am building an RV-6 currently and the firewall will get the usual layer of HeatShield mat to help keep the heat out of the cockpit. The floorboards will also get some insulation, but i haven't made up my mind which product will go there yet.
Heat, sound, paint, and trim products
For Mike Starkey, no, this stuff will not hold up to Dan Horton's fire breathing dragon set up. It isn't intended to be fireproof. It's intended to insulate and reflect heat.
I use this on the engine side of my firewall(s) but would have no qualms about putting it in the tunnel of an RV-10, although there are undoubtedly many ways to insulate that area.
I am building an RV-6 currently and the firewall will get the usual layer of HeatShield mat to help keep the heat out of the cockpit. The floorboards will also get some insulation, but i haven't made up my mind which product will go there yet.
Heat, sound, paint, and trim products
__________________
Vince Frazier
www.flyboyaccessories.com
RV and Rocket Accessories, Tailwheels, Tools, & More
1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269)RV-6 under construction
F1-H Rocket "Crazy Horse"
RV-4 "Chief Pontiac"
Vince Frazier
www.flyboyaccessories.com
RV and Rocket Accessories, Tailwheels, Tools, & More
1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269)RV-6 under construction
F1-H Rocket "Crazy Horse"
RV-4 "Chief Pontiac"
From Bill Peyton
I used fibre frax on the cabin side of the firewall and the floors, including the tunnel, two layers of 1/8". I also installed the stainless heat valves. Everything else is stock. My tunnel is cool to the touch. I believe that the newer exhaust system with the outlet extension pointed downward, is probably one of the reasons the tunnel issue has gone away.
__________________
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 190 hrs
First Flight Oct 2012
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 190 hrs
First Flight Oct 2012
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Friday, September 27, 2013
Duckworks Installation Kit Only
http://duckworksav.com/InstallKits.html
I will probably use Duckworks lampless installaiton kit. I now need to figure out which lamps to use.
There are three:
I will probably use Duckworks lampless installaiton kit. I now need to figure out which lamps to use.
There are three:
- Rectangular kit
- Round kit
- Blank kit. Is this the one I need?
Thursday, September 26, 2013
Weld On vs Lord Adhesive
Lord Adhesive seems to be better
From Brandi Unrein on VAF http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=104739
I don't know if you guys remember, but we attached the pilot side door window on our plane with Weld-On and the other windows with Lord Adhesive as a little experiment. Some builders feel that the Weld-On is responsible for the small cracks that form around the window over time. Personally, I was sold on ANY alternative after working with Weld-On for the first time; what a huge mess! Note that, for all windows, we left the appropriate (and same) size gap around them and then filled in this gap with filler as instructed in the plans.
Flash back to OSH 2012... at around 55 hours, a friend pointed out a "ridge" forming around our Weld-On window. It was pretty nasty looking and would have definitely caused some paint issues if the plane would have been painted already. Since then, this "ridge" has covered more ground around the window but has not really changed in height. Here's a photo of the Weld-On "ridge" when we first discovered it.
Yesterday, our painter, Don, pointed out some cracks around the rear windows and doors in which we had used the Lord Adhesive! Granted, they are NOWHERE near the size of the strange "ridge" that formed on the Weld-On window but, they're still there. We're now at about 270 hours and I've never noticed these cracks before so I don't know how long they've been there. They're pretty small so it isn't something that you'd see on an unpainted plane unless you were, say, prepping the cabin cover for paint. It might not even be something that would have shown up through paint already; I have no experience in this area. Below are photos of the cracks found in the Lord Adhesive rear and door windows, respectively. You can click them to open the full size image and get a better view of the cracks.
I find it very interesting that the cracked areas don't always occur at the edge of the window. A few spots are actually at the cabin cover, on the other side of the gap.
I still think Lord Adhesive is the better option but, it's not the ultimate solution. I'm not sure there is one short of masking the cracks by putting a few layers of glass around the seams. It seems cracks are inevitable when you have two different materials expanding and contracting at different rates. Anyways, just thought I would share more findings on our experiment.
From Brandi Unrein on VAF http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=104739
I don't know if you guys remember, but we attached the pilot side door window on our plane with Weld-On and the other windows with Lord Adhesive as a little experiment. Some builders feel that the Weld-On is responsible for the small cracks that form around the window over time. Personally, I was sold on ANY alternative after working with Weld-On for the first time; what a huge mess! Note that, for all windows, we left the appropriate (and same) size gap around them and then filled in this gap with filler as instructed in the plans.
Flash back to OSH 2012... at around 55 hours, a friend pointed out a "ridge" forming around our Weld-On window. It was pretty nasty looking and would have definitely caused some paint issues if the plane would have been painted already. Since then, this "ridge" has covered more ground around the window but has not really changed in height. Here's a photo of the Weld-On "ridge" when we first discovered it.
Yesterday, our painter, Don, pointed out some cracks around the rear windows and doors in which we had used the Lord Adhesive! Granted, they are NOWHERE near the size of the strange "ridge" that formed on the Weld-On window but, they're still there. We're now at about 270 hours and I've never noticed these cracks before so I don't know how long they've been there. They're pretty small so it isn't something that you'd see on an unpainted plane unless you were, say, prepping the cabin cover for paint. It might not even be something that would have shown up through paint already; I have no experience in this area. Below are photos of the cracks found in the Lord Adhesive rear and door windows, respectively. You can click them to open the full size image and get a better view of the cracks.
I find it very interesting that the cracked areas don't always occur at the edge of the window. A few spots are actually at the cabin cover, on the other side of the gap.
I still think Lord Adhesive is the better option but, it's not the ultimate solution. I'm not sure there is one short of masking the cracks by putting a few layers of glass around the seams. It seems cracks are inevitable when you have two different materials expanding and contracting at different rates. Anyways, just thought I would share more findings on our experiment.
Sunday, September 15, 2013
I have almost moved
Today I was moving a lot of things - tools, parts, supplies from "old" basement workshop to the new, i.e. garage workshop. Move is almost complete so I hope I will start working soon again.
I'm very unhappy with my progress. It does not exist. I have not done anything since June.
I'm very unhappy with my progress. It does not exist. I have not done anything since June.
Thursday, August 8, 2013
Air Leaks Create Drag
Spend time to close possible air leaks from the cockpit. When air escapes, it creates drag.
The piper archer has a large screen covered exit on the belly under the rear seats. With that said, I have the same set up you are planning and have no issues with the air escaping through the baggage bulkhead. I have insulation on the bulkhead, but it doesn't block the corregations
__________________
Bill Peyton
Bill Peyton
Early in the build I went to great efforts to try to eliminate air drafts n the cockpit. The approach that I took was somewhat different than most of the hangar talk that I had been hearing. Instead of trying to block the air from infiltering the cabin from the tail cone (nearly impossible) we spent time sealing the areas that the air tries to escape the cocpit. These areas are possibly, (but not proven) firewall penetrations, any wing root openings there is low pressure here, aleron control penetrations, door seal, etc. By doing this you can shut the fresh air inlets and feel no draft in flight...none. Also noticable is, I really don't think I get as muvh air volume in the naca vents as other -10's that I have flown but that's what the air conditioning is for.
The main reason for this was not so much for draft prevention however that was an added benefit, but for drag reduction. Any air that "leaks" in has to "leak" out and causes drag in the process.
The main reason for this was not so much for draft prevention however that was an added benefit, but for drag reduction. Any air that "leaks" in has to "leak" out and causes drag in the process.
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Workshop now has air conditioner and lights
Since last year I have been working in a one car garage sized workshop in the basement of our house. As I have progressed with building I need to move to our two car garage. If not to get more work area, then at least to have a way to get built parts out. I could build tail cone in the basement alright, but I would not be able to get it out - it had a standard, 3-feet or so, door.
So for about two months now I have had our garage improved. Walls, doors and ceiling were insulated. I have purchased an LG air conditioner with heat and had it installed. Electrician ran two additional circuits, installed overhead lights and ran 220V for the a/c. As of yesterday a/c is working very nice and I can keep building workbench and shelves to store control surfaces and other completed parts.
Then I will move everything from basement to garage and continue working. Fuselage is coming in August!
So for about two months now I have had our garage improved. Walls, doors and ceiling were insulated. I have purchased an LG air conditioner with heat and had it installed. Electrician ran two additional circuits, installed overhead lights and ran 220V for the a/c. As of yesterday a/c is working very nice and I can keep building workbench and shelves to store control surfaces and other completed parts.
Then I will move everything from basement to garage and continue working. Fuselage is coming in August!
Website was hacked - no joy - old database is gone
I have confirmed I cannot restore any of my previous posts because the database is gone. There's really nothing to say here... don't kick me, I feel bad enough already.
Saturday, July 6, 2013
My website was hacked
Well, it has happened to me too. I was naive or stupid (it depends on the point of view) to think that my blog would not be interesting to any bots, so I just left it open to any kind of of attacks and, boy, did I have gotten them!
Thanks to good admin guys who host my site they spotted it and killed everything. The thing is that I have probably lost all my previous posts as I was stupid (no confusion here) not to make backups. The good thing is that I did not post much.
I will try to find out if there were any default backups done by the host and if I can restore any posts from there.
What I probably need to do is to post a short summary of what I have done since I have ordered empennage.
People, backup and protect your sites!
Thanks to good admin guys who host my site they spotted it and killed everything. The thing is that I have probably lost all my previous posts as I was stupid (no confusion here) not to make backups. The good thing is that I did not post much.
I will try to find out if there were any default backups done by the host and if I can restore any posts from there.
What I probably need to do is to post a short summary of what I have done since I have ordered empennage.
People, backup and protect your sites!
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